The Ghosts of Kirkstone Pass

During a recent visit to Cumbria I thought it only polite to stop by one of the most haunted Inns in England (allegedly). Kirkstone Pass Inn dates back to 1496 AD and is the third highest public house in the country and the highest inhabited building in Cumbria, being a mere 1500ft above sea – level. It is believed to have once been connected to an ancient 15th Century monastery, and is now a welcomed rest stop visited by many travellers, alive and dead. Its remoteness is ideal for those wanting to getaway from it all – however if you’re looking for somewhere to rest for the night, I’d think again! Due to all its unpaying guests, you’re sure to get more than you bargained for. The Inn is named after the a large standing stone situated 500 metres away, not far from the Kirkstone quarry, overlooking Brotherswater below. The word “kirk” is Scottish for church, and it was the romantic poet, William Wordsworth who immortalised the standing stone with the words:

‘This block and yon, whose church like frame, gives to this savage pass its name.’

One such visitor to the Inn is Ruth Ray, who many years ago made the perilous journey from Patterdale to visit her ailing father. With her baby wrapped warmly and cradled in her arms she set out across the fells. As she approached the Kirkstone Pass, the weather became much worse with an unexpected blizzard of heavy snow and blowing gales. Poor Ruth was unable to find her way through the harsh weather, finally falling victim to the freezing temperatures – her frozen, lifeless body was later found by her husband still holding the small child who miraculously survived. Ruth is sometimes seen wandering about the Inn, perhaps waiting to be reunited with her baby. Another restless soul is that of a hiker, who is said to have once worked at the Inn and is responsible for the poltergeist activity. This “noisy ghost” likes to throw glasses from the bar, as well as bowls and plates. It can be expensive having a poltergeist who insists on breaking everything, on a lighter note however, it might save on the washing up.

A more sinister ghoul is the grey lady who likes to scream in the faces of unsuspecting visitors, leaving them hastily heading toward the exit to escape their hellish encounter. Who is this malevolent entity and why does she insist on scaring the life out of the living? The shade of a young boy is sometimes seen standing outside the Inn. This poor lad is said to have been accidently run over and killed by a horse drawn coach. I wonder who or what he is waiting for all these years later. The apparition of a woman who brutally murdered her young child is said to haunt a nearby tree – the same tree that broke her neck in a noose years earlier. Maybe her punishment in death is to be bound to the area of her execution, as a reminder of her evil crime.

A more recent ghost story is that of a family who came to the Inn during their travels. While looking about the place they decided to take some photographs. A man dressed in 17th Century garb appeared on one of the photos. Closer examination of the image revealed that this man was indeed the great, great, grandfather of the family who had taken the shot. Needless to say this grateful ghost is said to have gone home with his relatives, leaving the years he spent at the Inn behind him. Let’s hope he likes all the mod cons of his new home. The Inn and surrounding area is home to many ghosts, far too many to list here. During my research and visit, I came across inexplicable episodes of battery drainage from my mobile devices and my camera not being able to focus properly, no matter what I tried. As soon as I left the premises however, everything returned to normal.

It’s believed by many that travellers along this mountainous terrain who have met with fatal accidents, also come to the Inn, perhaps confused and not accepting their own death, in search of refuge or seeking revenge – whatever the reason, the Inn seems to act like a fiery  beacon for the lost souls, recent and not so recent victims of this dangerous winding narrow road known as the Kirkstone Pass.